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Error code reference

Electrolux Range Error Code Bake + Convection Roast + Lock (LEDs 1,3,6)

Maximum lock time exceeded on motor door latch.

Maximum lock time exceeded on motor door latch.

First step from the service manual

Set the oven up for a clean cycle. Check if the latch motor turns. If no, check voltage applied to latch motor. If line to neutral, replace latch mechanism. If zero, replace electronic control board. If yes, check phase and lock switches (should be closed with door locked, open with door unlocked).

The complete diagnostic procedure includes additional test steps, resistance specifications, wiring diagram references, and component test points.

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What Bake + Convection Roast + Lock (LEDs 1,3,6) means on a Electrolux range

This error code is triggered when the motor-driven door latch mechanism fails to complete its locking cycle within the maximum allowed time. On Electrolux ranges, the door latch is operated by a latch motor that drives the lock bar into position during self-clean cycles. The control board monitors the phase switch and lock switch to confirm successful latch engagement. When the latch motor runs but the lock switch never confirms a closed (locked) position within the allowed window, the board registers this fault and illuminates the Bake, Convection Roast, and Lock LEDs (positions 1, 3, and 6) simultaneously.

The latch mechanism includes two key switches: the phase switch and the lock switch. Both should read closed when the door is fully locked and open when the door is unlocked. If the motor is not running at all, the fault path splits based on voltage at the motor terminals. Line-to-neutral voltage present at the motor with no motor movement points to a failed latch motor or mechanical binding in the latch assembly, requiring latch mechanism replacement. Zero voltage at the motor terminals indicates the control board is not sending the run signal, pointing to a failed electronic control board.

If the latch motor does run but the door does not lock fully, the diagnostic focus shifts to the phase and lock switches themselves. A switch that fails to close when the door is locked, or one that has shifted out of mechanical alignment, will prevent the board from confirming successful latch engagement. Mechanical obstructions around the latch bar, worn switch contacts, or a stretched latch linkage can all produce this condition without any motor failure.

Source: manufacturer service documentation.

Common causes of Bake + Convection Roast + Lock (LEDs 1,3,6)

  1. 01

    Failed or seized latch motor

    Part replacement

    The latch motor receives line-to-neutral voltage but does not turn, indicating the motor windings have failed or the mechanism is mechanically bound. Replacing the latch mechanism assembly resolves this condition.

  2. 02

    Faulty lock switch or phase switch

    Part replacement

    If the latch motor runs but the lock or phase switch does not transition to the closed position when the door is locked, the board cannot confirm latch engagement. Inspect both switches for proper contact closure and mechanical alignment.

  3. 03

    Mechanical obstruction or worn latch linkage

    Wiring / connection

    Debris around the latch bar, a bent latch arm, or a worn linkage can prevent the latch from traveling fully into the locked position even when the motor runs. Visually inspect the latch assembly for physical obstructions or damage.

  4. 04

    Failed electronic control board

    Part replacement

    When zero voltage is measured at the latch motor terminals during a clean cycle initiation, the control board is not sending the run signal to the motor. This points to an internal board failure requiring board replacement.

See the test procedure for each cause

Frequently asked questions about Bake + Convection Roast + Lock (LEDs 1,3,6)

What does Bake + Convection Roast + Lock (LEDs 1,3,6) mean on a Electrolux range?
This combination of illuminated LEDs indicates that the motor door latch exceeded its maximum allowed lock time during a self-clean cycle. The control board monitors the latch motor and switch feedback to confirm the door locked successfully. When that confirmation does not arrive within the permitted window, the board sets this fault. The oven will not operate in self-clean mode until the underlying latch issue is corrected.
Can I fix the Bake + Convection Roast + Lock error myself?
Some causes are within reach of a skilled DIYer. Checking for mechanical obstructions around the latch bar and inspecting switch alignment require no special tools. However, testing voltage at the latch motor and confirming switch continuity requires a multimeter and comfort working near energized components. Replacing the latch mechanism or the control board is straightforward for someone with appliance repair experience, but if you are not comfortable with electrical testing, a technician is the safer choice.
Is it safe to use my Electrolux range when this error is displayed?
Normal baking and cooking functions may still be available depending on how the control board responds to the fault, but you should not attempt to run a self-clean cycle while this error is active. The door latch is a safety component for the self-clean cycle, and operating that function with a compromised latch creates a burn hazard. Resolve the latch fault before using the self-clean feature.
Will resetting the oven clear this error code?
Cycling power to the range may temporarily clear the displayed fault, but the error will return the next time a self-clean cycle is initiated if the underlying latch problem has not been repaired. The fault is tied to a physical failure in the latch motor, switches, or control board, so a power reset alone does not address the root cause.
How much does it cost to repair the door latch fault on an Electrolux range?
Repair costs vary based on the failed component. A replacement latch mechanism assembly typically runs between $50 and $130 for the part alone. An electronic control board can range from $150 to $350 depending on the model. Adding professional labor, total repair costs generally fall between $150 and $500. Diagnosing which component is at fault before ordering parts will help avoid unnecessary expenses.

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