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Error code reference

Hotpoint Dishwasher Error Code AL10

Heating element circuit not compliant

Hotpoint codesHotpoint dishwasher codes

Heating element circuit not compliant - The Main PCB has registered the electrical opening of the heating circuit element/ITR wiring; alarm active when heater relay not inserted; open circuit signal must be present for set minutes.

First step from the service manual

Check if heater is faulty; check for cables disconnected in heater circuit; check heater connector on timer side; check if Main PCB relay is faulty.

The complete diagnostic procedure includes additional test steps, resistance specifications, wiring diagram references, and component test points.

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What AL10 means on a Hotpoint dishwasher

AL10 on a Hotpoint dishwasher indicates a heating element circuit fault. The main PCB has detected an open circuit condition in the heater circuit, meaning electrical continuity has been lost somewhere between the control board and the heating element. This alarm becomes active specifically when the heater relay on the main PCB is energized but no current flow is detected through the circuit. The fault must persist for a defined number of minutes before the alarm triggers, which helps filter out brief transient interruptions.

The heating circuit in a Hotpoint dishwasher involves the heating element itself, the ITR (Infinite Temperature Regulator or thermal cutout), the wiring harness connecting them, and the relay on the main PCB that switches power to the circuit. An open circuit can occur at any point in this chain. Common failure points include a burned-out heating element with broken internal resistance wire, a tripped or failed thermal cutout device (ITR), corroded or disconnected wiring connectors, or a failed relay on the main PCB that is not closing properly when commanded.

Diagnosing AL10 starts with inspecting all connectors in the heater circuit for looseness, corrosion, or heat damage. The heating element should be tested for continuity using a multimeter. A fully open heating element will show no continuity at all. If the element and wiring check out, the main PCB relay should be evaluated, as a relay that fails to close will also produce this fault condition even when all downstream components are intact.

Source: manufacturer service documentation.

Common causes of AL10

  1. 01

    Failed heating element

    Part replacement

    The heating element itself may have burned out internally, creating an open circuit. Test the element with a multimeter for continuity; a faulty element will show no continuity between its terminals.

  2. 02

    Disconnected or damaged wiring in the heater circuit

    Wiring / connection

    Connectors in the heater circuit can loosen, corrode, or separate due to heat exposure over time. Inspect all wiring connectors along the heater circuit, including those at the element terminals and at the PCB end.

  3. 03

    Failed or tripped ITR (thermal cutout)

    Part replacement

    The ITR is a protective thermal device in the heater circuit that can open permanently if it has tripped due to overheating. A failed ITR will break the circuit continuity just like a broken element.

  4. 04

    Faulty heater connector on the timer or PCB side

    Wiring / connection

    The connector where the heater circuit meets the main PCB or timer may be poorly seated or corroded. A bad connection at this point prevents the board from detecting current flow even if the element itself is fine.

  5. 05

    Failed main PCB heater relay

    Part replacement

    If the relay on the main PCB responsible for switching power to the heater circuit has failed in the open position, the board will never energize the circuit and will log AL10. This is typically diagnosed after all other components in the circuit have been confirmed good.

See the test procedure for each cause

Frequently asked questions about AL10

What does AL10 mean on a Hotpoint dishwasher?
AL10 means the main PCB has detected an open circuit in the heating element circuit. The board is not seeing electrical continuity through the heater circuit when the heater relay is activated. This fault must be present for a set number of minutes before the alarm triggers. The dishwasher will not be able to heat water or complete a normal wash cycle until the fault is resolved.
Can I fix an AL10 error myself, or do I need a technician?
Some causes of AL10 are accessible to a knowledgeable DIYer. Checking and reseating disconnected wiring connectors in the heater circuit requires no special tools and can clear the fault if a loose connection is the cause. Testing the heating element for continuity with a multimeter is also a straightforward check. However, replacing the main PCB or diagnosing a relay fault on the board is typically best handled by a qualified appliance technician.
Is it safe to keep using my dishwasher when AL10 is displayed?
Running the dishwasher with an AL10 fault means the heating element is not functioning, so dishes will not be washed in properly heated water and the drying phase will be ineffective. While the fault itself does not immediately create a safety hazard, the underlying cause should be diagnosed promptly. If wiring damage is present in the heater circuit, continuing to operate the appliance without inspection is not advisable.
Will resetting the dishwasher clear the AL10 error?
A reset may temporarily clear the displayed error code, but AL10 will return as soon as the dishwasher attempts to run the heating circuit again and detects the same open circuit condition. The alarm requires the open circuit signal to be present for a defined period before triggering, so resetting does not fix the underlying problem. The faulty component or connection must be identified and repaired for the error to stay cleared.
How much does it cost to repair an AL10 error on a Hotpoint dishwasher?
Repair costs vary depending on which component has failed. A replacement heating element typically falls in the range of $30 to $80 for the part alone, while a new main PCB can range from $80 to $200 or more. Adding professional labor costs generally brings the total repair estimate to somewhere between $100 and $350 depending on the fault and your location. Getting a diagnosis first helps avoid replacing parts unnecessarily.

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