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Error code reference

Midea Washer Error Code E3

The lid is open, or door lock/PCB has failed.

Midea codesMidea washer codes

The lid is open, or door lock/PCB has failed.

First step from the service manual

Close the lid. If still present, check the door lock or PCB; refer to troubleshooting.

The complete diagnostic procedure includes additional test steps, resistance specifications, wiring diagram references, and component test points.

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What E3 means on a Midea washer

The E3 error code on a Midea washer indicates a lid or door lock fault. The washer's control system continuously monitors the door lock circuit to confirm the lid is secured before allowing the drum to spin. When the PCB detects that the door lock switch has not closed the circuit within the expected timeframe, or that the circuit signal is absent or erratic during a cycle, it halts operation and displays E3. This is a safety-critical interlock, as running the spin cycle with an open or unsecured lid presents a serious hazard.

The most straightforward cause is simply that the lid is physically open or not fully latched. However, if closing the lid does not clear the code, the fault points to a component failure within the door lock assembly itself. The door lock mechanism contains an internal switch or solenoid that signals the PCB when the lid is properly secured. A broken plastic latch strike, a worn solenoid, or a failed switch contact inside the lock assembly can all prevent that signal from reaching the board.

If the door lock assembly tests correctly or has been replaced without resolving the error, the PCB itself may be at fault. The board is responsible for sending power to the lock and interpreting the feedback signal. A failed relay, burnt trace, or damaged input circuit on the PCB can mimic a door lock fault even when the lock hardware is functioning normally. Wiring and connectors between the lock and the board should also be inspected for corrosion, breaks, or loose terminals before condemning either component.

Source: manufacturer service documentation.

Common causes of E3

  1. 01

    Lid not fully closed or latched

    Wiring / connection

    The lid may appear closed but not be fully pressed down until the latch clicks into place. Check for any laundry or debris obstructing the lid from seating properly against the lock strike.

  2. 02

    Faulty door lock assembly

    Part replacement

    The internal switch or solenoid inside the door lock assembly may have failed, preventing it from sending a confirmation signal to the PCB. The lock can often be tested for continuity across its switch terminals to confirm failure.

  3. 03

    Broken lid latch strike

    Part replacement

    The plastic strike or tab on the lid that physically engages the lock mechanism can crack or break over time, meaning the lock cannot mechanically actuate even if the lid is pressed down firmly.

  4. 04

    Wiring or connector fault between lock and PCB

    Wiring / connection

    Loose, corroded, or broken wire terminals on the harness connecting the door lock to the control board can interrupt the signal. Inspect the connector at both the lock and the board for damage or poor contact.

  5. 05

    Failed PCB

    Part replacement

    If the door lock assembly and wiring check out correctly, the control board may have a damaged relay or input circuit that prevents it from properly reading the door lock signal. This is the least common cause and should be diagnosed after all other components are ruled out.

See the test procedure for each cause

Frequently asked questions about E3

What does E3 mean on a Midea washer?
The E3 code on a Midea washer signals a lid open or door lock fault. The washer's control board has detected that the lid is not secured or that the door lock circuit is not responding correctly. The machine will not run a spin cycle until this condition is resolved. The cause can range from a simple unlatched lid to a failed lock assembly or PCB.
How do I fix the E3 error on my Midea washer?
Start by firmly closing the lid until you hear or feel the latch click, then restart the cycle. If the error persists, inspect the lid latch strike for cracks and check the door lock assembly for visible damage. If those components appear intact, check the wiring harness connecting the lock to the control board for loose or corroded terminals. A failed door lock assembly or PCB will require part replacement to resolve the code.
Is it safe to use my Midea washer when it shows E3?
No, you should not attempt to bypass or ignore the E3 error. The door lock interlock exists to prevent the lid from opening during high-speed spinning, which can cause injury. The washer is designed to halt operation when this fault is detected, and running it in a faulted state is not safe or possible under normal conditions.
Will resetting my Midea washer clear the E3 error?
A power reset, such as unplugging the machine for a minute and restarting it, may temporarily clear the code if it was triggered by a minor glitch. However, if the underlying cause is a faulty door lock assembly, broken latch strike, or damaged PCB, the error will return as soon as the washer attempts to run. A reset is a useful first step but is not a substitute for diagnosing the root cause.
How much does it cost to repair an E3 error on a Midea washer?
If only the door lock assembly needs replacement, parts typically cost in the range of $15 to $50 depending on the specific model, and the repair is generally straightforward for a DIYer. A broken lid latch strike is often an inexpensive plastic part. If the PCB is at fault, the repair cost rises considerably, with control boards often ranging from $80 to $200 or more, and professional labor adding to that total.

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