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Error code reference

KitchenAid Range Error Code F9

Miswired house or miswired range (LCC 90/95).

KitchenAid codesKitchenAid range codes

Miswired house or miswired range (LCC 90/95).

First step from the service manual

Press CANCEL>CANCEL>START to enter the Diagnostics Mode and verify the failure. Verify that the house power supply provides 240 VAC between L1 and L2, and 120 VAC between L1 and N and L2 and N.

The complete diagnostic procedure includes additional test steps, resistance specifications, wiring diagram references, and component test points.

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What F9 means on a KitchenAid range

The F9 error code on a KitchenAid range indicates a wiring fault detected by the LCC (Low Current Control) board, specifically models designated 90 or 95. This code fires when the control detects an imbalance or incorrect voltage relationship between the two hot legs (L1 and L2) and the neutral (N) of the incoming 240 VAC supply. A properly wired 240-volt range circuit should measure approximately 240 VAC across L1 and L2, and approximately 120 VAC from each hot leg to neutral. When those readings fall outside acceptable parameters, the control interprets the condition as a wiring fault and displays F9.

The fault can originate at two distinct points: the household electrical supply or the range itself. On the house side, common problems include a wiring error at the terminal block, a loose or open neutral conductor, or a miswired outlet or junction. On the range side, the issue is typically an incorrect connection at the terminal block where the supply cord or conduit attaches. Three-wire and four-wire supply configurations are both common in the field, and an incorrect neutral-to-ground bonding strap arrangement during installation is a frequent source of this error.

Diagnosing F9 begins by entering Diagnostics Mode using the CANCEL, CANCEL, START key sequence to confirm the fault is active. From there, a multimeter should be used at the range terminal block to verify 240 VAC between L1 and L2, and 120 VAC between each hot leg and neutral. If those readings are correct at the terminal block, the problem lies within the range wiring or the LCC board itself. If the readings are incorrect, the supply circuit must be inspected and corrected before the range can operate safely.

Source: manufacturer service documentation.

Common causes of F9

  1. 01

    Miswired range terminal block

    Wiring / connection

    Incorrect connections at the range's terminal block, such as a swapped neutral and ground or improperly configured bonding strap for a 3-wire versus 4-wire supply, are a leading cause of F9 after installation or a cord replacement.

  2. 02

    Open or loose neutral conductor

    Wiring / connection

    A broken, loose, or disconnected neutral wire anywhere from the panel to the terminal block causes the 120-volt leg readings to be unbalanced or absent, triggering F9. Check all wire connections at the outlet, junction box, and terminal block.

  3. 03

    Miswired household circuit or outlet

    Wiring / connection

    An error made during original house wiring or a recent electrical repair, such as L1 and N being swapped at the receptacle or junction, will produce incorrect voltages that the LCC board flags as a fault.

  4. 04

    Faulty or damaged supply cord

    Part replacement

    A range power cord with a broken internal conductor, particularly the neutral wire, can cause the voltage imbalance detected by the control. Inspect the cord for physical damage and test continuity on each conductor.

  5. 05

    Defective LCC control board

    Part replacement

    If all supply voltages measure correctly at the terminal block and all wiring connections are confirmed sound, the LCC board itself may be misreading the incoming power. A faulty board is the least common cause but should be considered after all wiring has been ruled out.

See the test procedure for each cause

Frequently asked questions about F9

What does F9 mean on a KitchenAid range?
F9 indicates that the LCC control board has detected a wiring fault, either in the household power supply or in the range's own wiring connections. The control monitors the voltage relationships between the two hot legs and the neutral and flags F9 when those readings are not within the expected range. Specifically, the circuit should provide 240 VAC between L1 and L2, and 120 VAC from each hot leg to neutral. The fault must be diagnosed and corrected before the range can operate safely.
Can I fix a KitchenAid F9 error myself?
A knowledgeable DIYer comfortable working with high-voltage circuits can inspect the range terminal block connections and verify voltage readings with a multimeter. However, any work on the household electrical panel or fixed wiring should be performed by a licensed electrician. If the supply voltages are correct at the terminal block but the error persists, the internal range wiring or the LCC board will need further professional diagnosis.
Is it safe to use my KitchenAid range when F9 is displayed?
No, you should not use the range while F9 is active. This code signals an abnormal power supply condition that can affect how heating elements and controls receive voltage, which poses both a safety risk and the potential for further component damage. The underlying wiring issue must be identified and corrected before resuming normal use.
Will resetting the range clear the F9 error code?
A simple reset by cycling the breaker or unplugging the range will not permanently clear F9 if the underlying wiring problem still exists. The code will return as soon as the control re-evaluates the incoming power. The fault must be corrected at its source, whether that is the household circuit or the range terminal block, before the error will stay cleared.
How much does it cost to repair a KitchenAid range F9 error?
Repair costs vary depending on where the fault is found. If the issue is a loose connection or incorrectly wired terminal block, the cost may be limited to a service call fee, typically in the range of $75 to $150. If the supply cord needs replacement, parts and labor generally run $100 to $200. If the household wiring or panel connections are at fault, an electrician's fee will apply separately. A failed LCC control board is the most expensive scenario, with parts and labor potentially ranging from $200 to $400 or more.

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