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Error code reference

GE Range Error Code LOW POWER

Power monitor detects low power condition

GE codesGE range codes

Power monitor detects low power condition — L1-L2 voltage below 150VAC (after power-up).

First step from the service manual

Check supply voltage at terminal block. Note: Low Power supersedes Supply Open Neutral.

The complete diagnostic procedure includes additional test steps, resistance specifications, wiring diagram references, and component test points.

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What LOW POWER means on a GE range

The LOW POWER error code on a GE range is triggered by the power monitor circuit when it detects that the L1-to-L2 voltage has dropped below 150VAC after the unit has already powered up. This is a voltage-level fault, not a wiring break or open circuit. The range continuously monitors its incoming supply voltage and compares it against an operational threshold. When the measured voltage falls below the 150VAC minimum, the control board logs this condition and displays the LOW POWER alert to prevent the appliance from operating under conditions that could damage components or produce unreliable cooking results.

The primary system involved is the main power supply circuit, specifically the 240VAC two-leg service that feeds the range through a terminal block. A standard residential 240VAC circuit consists of two hot legs (L1 and L2), each nominally 120VAC relative to neutral. The power monitor measures the combined L1-L2 potential across both legs. If either leg sags severely or one leg partially loses voltage without fully opening, the combined reading can drop below the 150VAC threshold and trigger this fault.

Common causes include utility supply problems, a failing or corroded terminal block connection, a deteriorating range power cord, or a weak breaker that is not fully tripping but also not delivering full voltage. It is also important to note that LOW POWER supersedes the Supply Open Neutral fault in the diagnostic priority order, meaning if both conditions exist simultaneously, LOW POWER will be the code displayed. Checking supply voltage directly at the terminal block with a multimeter is the required first step to isolate whether the fault originates at the utility, the breaker panel, or within the range's own wiring and connections.

Source: manufacturer service documentation.

Common causes of LOW POWER

  1. 01

    Low utility supply voltage

    Wiring / connection

    The incoming voltage from the power company may be sagging below acceptable levels, especially during periods of high grid demand. Confirm by measuring L1-L2 voltage at the terminal block with a multimeter while the range is connected.

  2. 02

    Weak or failing circuit breaker

    Part replacement

    A double-pole breaker that is degraded may not trip fully but can still fail to deliver the full 240VAC to the range, causing one or both legs to read low. The breaker should be tested for proper voltage output on both poles.

  3. 03

    Corroded or loose terminal block connection

    Part replacement

    High-resistance connections at the range terminal block, caused by corrosion, loose screws, or heat damage, can cause a significant voltage drop under load. Inspect the terminal block for discoloration, arcing marks, or loose wiring.

  4. 04

    Damaged or degraded power cord

    Part replacement

    A power cord with internal conductor damage, a loose plug blade, or a burned connector can create resistance that drops the delivered voltage below 150VAC. Inspect the cord and wall receptacle for heat damage or loose fit.

  5. 05

    Partial loss of one hot leg

    Wiring / connection

    If one of the two 120VAC hot legs from the panel is partially compromised due to a loose neutral or a panel connection issue, the L1-L2 combined voltage will fall short of the 150VAC threshold. This requires panel inspection by a licensed electrician.

See the test procedure for each cause

Frequently asked questions about LOW POWER

What does LOW POWER mean on a GE range?
LOW POWER on a GE range means the internal power monitor has detected that the L1-to-L2 supply voltage has fallen below 150VAC after the unit powered up. This is a voltage-level fault indicating the range is not receiving adequate electrical power to operate properly. The fault is separate from an open neutral condition and takes priority over it in the diagnostic sequence. The first step is to measure the actual supply voltage at the terminal block using a multimeter.
Can I fix a LOW POWER error on my GE range myself?
If the problem is a tripped or weak circuit breaker, resetting or replacing the breaker is a task some homeowners can handle safely. However, if the issue involves the terminal block, internal wiring, or the utility supply itself, those repairs should be performed by a qualified electrician or appliance technician. Always disconnect power before inspecting any wiring connections on the range.
Is it safe to use my GE range when it shows a LOW POWER error?
No, you should not continue using the range while the LOW POWER error is active. Operating the appliance under low-voltage conditions can cause damage to the control board, heating elements, and other components. The range has displayed this error specifically to alert you that operating conditions are outside safe parameters.
Will resetting the range clear the LOW POWER error code?
Resetting the range by cycling the circuit breaker may temporarily clear the display, but the error will return if the underlying voltage problem has not been corrected. The power monitor checks supply voltage after power-up, so if the voltage is still below 150VAC when the unit restarts, the code will reappear immediately. The root cause in the electrical supply or connections must be resolved first.
How much does it cost to repair a LOW POWER error on a GE range?
Repair costs depend heavily on the root cause. If a circuit breaker needs replacement, expect to pay roughly $150 to $300 for an electrician to diagnose and replace it. A new range power cord typically runs $20 to $60 for the part, with additional labor if a technician installs it. Terminal block replacement parts are generally inexpensive, but if the problem originates in the utility supply or main electrical panel, costs can range from $200 to $500 or more depending on the scope of the work.

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